BORN FREE

A family of elephants were so excited to reach the river. You could feel their excitement and anxiety to get in and drink.  Drinking thro their mighty long trunks, you can sense their pleaure as they submerge their enormous bodies into the cool water. Pushing, shoving and playing around with their trunks, resting the heavy appendix on another's back.  Such an enormous honour to be able to sit by them, albeit in a safari jeep .

Once or twice they came right up close to us and then walked on by. We could see into their eyes.  So amazing.

THEN our luck was in. In the late afternoon drive we finally found 3 lionesses & sat with the mother and her two teenage Cubs.   Sitting in the jeep as the sun is setting and feeling this mother and two cubs beginning to stir and getting ready to go hunting - magic moments and they are Born Free

We love being out in the bush in open jeeps you just can't beat it. Early mornings with the mist rising and late nights as the sun sets and the animals start stirring to go and hunt.  We're bounced around for hours before we finally find these wonderful beasts.

Obviously you are not guaranteed to see anything - go to Longleat if that's what you want.  But your bodies are shaken to the core and luckily the roof of the jeep is fabric as I came out of my seat a few times.  Our ranger is quite a character - Luka and he loves to get up close to the animals which is great

A visit to Born Free in Shamwiri to see lions and leopards they have saved from circuses and from being caged.  Animals that due to inactivity and poor health have lost their teeth, so have to be fed by humans.  Fantastic foundation. I

Brutus. an enormous lion was my favourite. You just wanted to cuddle him.

Back to brunch underthe trees

Not bad eh!!!! Just love it

WARTHOG SAUSAGES- Grahamstown & Xhosa tribe

Bill told us to get warthog sausages from Cannocks butchers while in Grahamstown- ask for Walter.  They are delicious- like nothing else!!! We found it easily. It was an impressive butchers, huge shop with staff in spotless clothes & caps. Eventually Walter came out.  I've never made Warthog  sausages he said. Bill is having you on! So we got springbok instead.for the braii that night. A bit disappointed.

 Grahamstown evolved once the Settlers realised that farming wasn't working for them. They weren't farmers anyway so took their skills, tracked across the hard terrain, encountered wild animals, and developed this village located in a horseshoe hollow with Bushmans river nearby.  It is now a city with a cathedral, wide roads, beautiful trees and plants, Rhodes Universitu and some impressive private schools spread around the city.

The Early Settlers how did they trek in these clothes and this heat. It's 40 today

Up high on a hill looking down over the city is the monument built to commentate theEarly  Settlers. The monument is an enormous theatre used by all. Such a great concept.  The white building was a garrison with canons around the perimeter built by the Early Settlers.

What the Settlers didn't realise was that

Makana an Xhosa Chief had settlements nearby.  In fact Makana, who was an Xhosa warrior, rallied his people to drive out the British Settlers. The Battle of Grahamstown in 1819. Had he won, it may have changed African history but he 

either handed himself in for his people's sake or got captured but was sent to Robben Island. Tried to escape and drowned.  The British people kept his death quiet for fear of uprisings.  He is a prophet 

The Xhosa people lived in Eastern Province happily having first fought off the Koisan tribe.  It is the Koi's who have enormous bottoms,apparently they stored water in this area! So we were told!! 

(Now you know Adrian!!!) 

The Xhosas are a lovely race, kind and friendly.  Bill said there has never been any apartheid in Leuwenbosch.  His staff are all children of original staff.  We worry for Leuwenbosch as they all adore Bill who isn't in the best of health.

They kept the evening braii a surprise. We didn't know where we'd be eating. It was amazing - long table lit with Tiley lamps, an enormous braii (fire pit) and candles all around a hidden area in the grounds.  We had our springbok sausages and to prove a point, Rose, Bills wife, found some warthog sausages in her freezer.  They were delicious, met expectations too.  Bill was so upset that Walter said he didn't make them but we think he didn't make them for the public only when Bill supplied the warthogs!!

What beautiful evening under a myriad of stars with the staff singing and dancing for us.  One of those unforgettable magic moments

So lucky

THE FOWLDES FAMILY & LEUWENBOSCHH

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Bill Fowldes, whiskey always in hand & often a pipe, told us his ancestors history. Slightly slurred we listened with interest. What a character he is & 80

After the Napoleonic wars, Britain was in a sorry state. The British army arriving home had to be paid.  Not being able to afford this, the soldiers were offered a package - a trip to Port Elizabeth with a parcel of farming land.  

These were the early settlers some 4000 in early 1815

It was in 1857 that 400 people were on the ship above.  Many died especially children as obviously it was a very onerous and frightening journey . They left Liverpool on 26 November 1857 & arrived at the end of February 1858.    Not realising the dangers of Xhosa & Koisan tribes, also roaming wild animals 

The photo below of Bills great grandparents who were on the ship above.

Being a blacksmith,  the first William Fowldes started building wagons near Port Elizabeth which was a huge success in these early days of the Settlers. He was soon able to travel to his own parcel of land. It was right on the route of the travellers going to the mine fields in the north.  William was able to start farming and building a business which has been handed down to five generations.

A photo of one of Williams carts.

The original bill of sale granting Fowldes the land

Sadly many people couldn't make their farms work and after ten years returned to Britain. Only four or five, in this area succeeded and whose generations are altogether today.  It is this group who formed Amahkala and switched dairy farming back to the original wild animals.

What history.

LEUWENBOSH

The Fowldes farm called Leuwenbosch  is now a country manor with sweeping lawns, beautiful gardens and litte quiet corners; stunning views. Verandas wrap around the building with wicker sofas outside each room - very comfortable for doing a suduko or having a nap!!

Cattle sheds have been converted to luxury ensuites. We are in Shearers Lodge with far reaching views

For each 50 hectares of land = one tourist bedroom . This is how Amakhala is run fairly by the group.

The swimming pool area is a delight with beautiful birds flying around. A gentle breeze and hot sun - blissful

They also have the cutest chapel which is used each week

There is an amazing calmness in these beautiful gardens, steeped in history. Incredible that Leuwenbosch has passed down so many generations. We are lucky to have met this family and enjoy its uniqueness.  

The best part is The Pub, a cellar. Stone walls & floor, lamps and atefacts - it's Bills favourite place. Encouraging guests before and after dinner to join him!!!!! His lovely wife Rose looks on!!  It's so different!

FACE ACHE

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I have a permanent smile on my face;  almost purring, breathing in and out with a Hmmmm.  

We're in Africa again.  Barry & I had a good flight - no fainting spells.!  It's so easy getting on a plane at 6pm, having a meal watching a couple of films, trying to get a few hours sleep & then as breakfast is served, you see the sun rising & you land at Joburg. Wonderful!! No jet lag

Today an early  morning game drive with warm African sun brushing our faces as we trundle along in the safari jeep spotting two huge rhinos, giraffe, zebra etc. Beautiful. 

A river trip on Bushmans river; kingfishers and razor cormorants darting into the river. Delightful way to start a holiday..

We are in the Amakhali Reserve east of Port Elizabeth.  We chose this lodge, Leuwenbosch, as it's different to the other safari lodges. It's steeped in history and the same family has owned it since their ancestors arrived in 1820. It is more a colonial manor with the original Fowldes family living here. And what a character Bill Fowldes is!!!  More about this family in another blog!

Amakhali was formed by The Fowldes family & a few adjoining farms 15 years ago.  They all changed from years of dairy farming to a joint, self sustaining wildlife tourist reserve & named it, Amakhali.  Very brave but they have this courageous spirit like their ancestors who came from Britain in a ship in 1820.  They now have lions, elephants, rhinos and say that it is far better financially!

Jennifer Cash (one of the farmers) gave us a talk in a converted cattle shed on how this group of farmers have strived to create Amakhali. So instead of milking cows, Jennifer does the marketing and talks. It was so interesting. Full of admiration for this group.

It's another world!